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Surfing History

Surfing a wave

Surfing a wave

Some Great Old Photos and Stories From This Magical Era

Reference links below::

If you are like a lot of us history enthusiasts, there is an intriguing allure to what has led us to the present years of advancements, technology, and experience. Without the recording of the years and history behind us we would have nothing to learn from, compare to, or leave for the future generations that are to come.

 

Explore The Roots Of Surf Culture To The Present

Surfing has exploded into one of the most popular extreme water sports today worldwide. Surfing is a recreational activity and sport in which a physically fit adrenaline rushed passionate surfing individual is propelled across the water with a backdrop of the extreme forces of unpredictable waves while visiting with the one and only fierce Mother Nature. Surfboards are used to stand on while slicing the waves and are made of lightweight fiberglass. Wood and foam surfboards are also still sometimes used. Other surfing equipment includes wetsuits to keep surfers warm in cold weather conditions, board shorts or surf trunks in warmer climates, board wax/traction pads to keep a surfer’s feet from slipping off the board, and board leashes to keep a surfer‘s board attached to the surfer so it does not lose into the ocean while surfing or a ~wipeout. This sport is not for the faint hearted as it requires practiced skill, execution of various maneuvers, high speed control with unpredictable challenging conditions, and a lot of sheer determination. Surfing has a powerful and unique appeal.

Surfing was originally developed before the 15th century on the island of Hawaii. The islanders used heavy wooden timbers to design their boards, however, the sport became popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s when the surfboards manufactured were made from fiberglass providing a lighter and more maneuverable, cheaper version for surfers to test their abilities. Hence, competitions spread out to areas that frequently produce the best wave conditions where they can compete to show their mastery of the skills. Professional Surfing World Championship competitions are held annually around the world today. In the 1990’s jet skis also known as wave runners, were introduced into the sport allowing surfers to pursue some of the world’s largest waves. The jet skis can tow them out to a position where they can now catch these previously unrideable and elusive giant waves. Few spectators were able to see this spectacular activity until television and movie crews became interested in what has evolved into an extremely popular sport and lucrative career for many in the present day.

A few surfers in a huge wave

A few surfers in a huge wave

Surfing Culture

Anywhere that the waves hit the shore, you can be assured there is a surfing culture there. Many of the surfers are locals and can get a bit annoyed or territorial if you plow onto the beach and don’t wait your turn. Can you blame them? “Universal law” is the one standing closest to the breaking part of the wave has the right of way and is next in turn. Bring an out of town raging party into their family’s year round backyards and you may agitate some people. Can you blame them? Really doesn’t fly much anywhere…Tip: Its simple. Be friendly and respectful, clean up your trash, take in the scenery, smile and make some new friends. Your courtesy will go a long way with your fellow surfers.

Various Common Maneuvers »

Cutback: Turning back toward the breaking point of the wave.

Floater: Riding at the very top of the wave.

Getting Barreled: This is the Superbowl of all surfing, where a surfer skillfully maneuvers into the wave as it breaks, and when the surf allows it curls over the top of them which forms a barrel, a cylinder type tube and the surfer safely rides it out… good day.

 

References ► Back into the days where it all began…

Surfer riding the tube of a wave

Surfer riding the tube of a wave

    • British Surfing Museum – History of surfing Britain, UK …
    • Surfing For Life - From Polynesia, With Love (pg1) The History of Surfing From Captain Cook to the Present, by Ben Marcus…
    • Surfing For Life - (pg2) 1900’s: London, Ford, Freeth, Duke, compilation of a few old timers that paved the way early on, by Ben Marcus…
    • Surfing For Life - (pg3) Gidget and the Era of Modern Surfing, by Ben Marcus…
    • Coffee Times - From the journal of Captain King, Cook’s Voyages, March 1779, three months after the death of Captain Cook..
    • Club Of The Waves – The story leading to how surfing in the present day has evolved into a staple of our culture…
    • Surf Art –Overview on women’s surf history…
    • Surf World – Claim to fame/largest surfing museum in the world! International Surfing Association (ISA) recognized in 1994 – Australia…
    • Legendary SurfersGreat women surfers of the wooden era…
    • Education Projects - Origins and the revival of surfing through the years…
    • Surfing Museum - International Surf Museum – Huntington Beach, California USA…
    • Wikipedia…
    • San Diego State University (SDSU) – Info Dome Library – Hang Ten! Documenting the history of surfing…
    • Laguna Art Museum – Laguna Beach, California USA – Surf culture and exhibitions..
    • Surfing For Life - From Polynesia, With Love and some great old time photos…
    • Santa Cruz Surfing Museum –Traces over 100 years of surfing history related to Santa Cruz, California USA…
    • Britannica Encyclopedia – History of surfing..
    • Spring Morning Herald - Australia – New theory clouds the waters of surfing history, photo from 1914 shows..
    • Extreme Horizon – Surf history guide from the origins to the modern…
Surfs up.  Heading out to surf in rough seas.

Surfs up. Man heading out to surf in rough seas

  • Surf Art - More history to skim over…
  • Santa Barbara Independent – April 16, 2008, First Women ever slicing the terrifying big waves at Mavericks in Northern California/ Award Winning Film Documentary: One Winter Story…
  • Black Surfing In the early 1940’s Nick Galbaldon was quickly accepted into the small prestigious group of Malibu locals, a well liked guy with great surfing ability…

more to come> See also ::

 

Video :: This is how you do it watch this…you go boys go! BIG WAVE SURFING at JAWS-MAUI-EXTREME-Part 3 of 3 …View